Remove this ad

#21 [url]

May 20 13 7:06 PM

@Jack-Good idea mate-A paint job would probably suffice, I'm not a button counter so not fussed about turnbacks, or real life historical accuracy, it would just be nice to have some cool looking figs.The hats might be harder to source though I'm sure some must have had their hat's knocked off in combat....(I can try and use some bare heads then.....[image])The closest I can think of is something along the lines of Austrian Jager or Brunswick Avante Garde but I'm not sure if Marines had the folded brim....Perry are bringing out some AWI American Militia in plastic soon so may have to give them a look see what hats come with them.

-potter

Most likely tricorns. Regulation headgear had changed dramatically by the turn of the century.

Polite nudge to keep things on topic, although I do like these discussions.

Quote    Reply   
Remove this ad
avatar

potter

superstar

Posts: 519

#23 [url]

May 21 13 5:15 PM

@Lord_Marcus-You're quite right, so apologies for seeming rude or distracting from the thread.

The squadron sounds ace, coincidentally, instead of bottle caps, if I ever run out, I've used Tea Tree light candles (inverted) with figs tacked to the bases. The candles are lit for a short time, and the wax allowed to fill the base to avoid the wax cylinder/cake dropping out. They're generally weighty enough not to tip if knocked during painting.

Is there anything you can't combine with the Persian figs?

Quote    Reply   

#24 [url]

May 21 13 8:55 PM

@Lord_Marcus-You're quite right, so apologies for seeming rude or distracting from the thread.The squadron sounds ace, coincidentally, instead of bottle caps, if I ever run out, I've used Tea Tree light candles (inverted) with figs tacked to the bases. The candles are lit for a short time, and the wax allowed to fill the base to avoid the wax cylinder/cake dropping out. They're generally weighty enough not to tip if knocked during painting.

-potter

You were not being rude, I simply did not want to switch completely to a discussion on early 19th century american military equipment. We can work on that in another thread! :)

Good idea with the tea lights, i may try that.

Quote    Reply   
avatar

jack

fanatic

Posts: 1,429

#26 [url]

May 22 13 6:49 PM

Marcus,
Really Cool! 
Do you 'wash' your models when done or are you also one of the many now that use that Army Painter system and just 'dip' each when you finish?
I think WSS would be great to build, but no darn body plays around here... and "if" they do play 28's, its generally nothing more than skirmish games like Saga.

Im really eager to see what the forces of the 'other' nation are going to be like. Im assuing of course they are going to be of the same 'technological' level.

One great thing about using black powder / musket era armies.. there is ALWAY's the chance they could 'run into' a less advanced, perhaps more OR less, savage culture.
Someone did some Maori, (think I spelled that right) with Zulu conversions they really looked great.

Eager to see more.. best of luck

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

Quote    Reply   
Remove this ad

#27 [url]

May 22 13 7:09 PM

Marcus, Really Cool!  Do you 'wash' your models when done or are you also one of the many now that use that Army Painter system and just 'dip' each when you finish?I think WSS would be great to build, but no darn body plays around here... and "if" they do play 28's, its generally nothing more than skirmish games like Saga.Im really eager to see what the forces of the 'other' nation are going to be like. Im assuing of course they are going to be of the same 'technological' level. One great thing about using black powder / musket era armies.. there is ALWAY's the chance they could 'run into' a less advanced, perhaps more OR less, savage culture. Someone did some Maori, (think I spelled that right) with Zulu conversions they really looked great.Eager to see more.. best of luck

-jack

Depends on the figure. For instance this infantryman is washed with ogyrn flesh on his face, hands, and hair, and has an Agrax earthshade wash on the brown pieces (the cuffs and lining of the coat, as well as the cravat.)

I also dip some models, as I have started doing with any additions to my undead army (excepting the stuff i use WGF skellies for, different aesthetic.) However I use polyurethane wood stain from Minwax instead of army painter (Does the same job IMO, for less money.

I have other conversions planned, including a pseudo roman force :P

Quote    Reply   
avatar

jack

fanatic

Posts: 1,429

#29 [url]

Oct 7 13 7:40 PM

Nice.. and yes, nothing like a camera "white-out" to add irritation and stress to your fun hobby. grin

However I use polyurethane wood stain from Minwax instead of army painter (Does the same job IMO, for less money.-lord_marcus


I have heard from a few others in the past that have done the same and are also pleased w/ the results.
As for "Army Painter", it just isnt practical in my budget, although I have seen some great results, its not for me.
Like you, it depends on the genre, I tend to lightly wash all flesh with a little brown to tone down the skin and bring out the 'eyes'. With my zombies, I used a light grey over the entire model, to give them a 'dusty clothing' look.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

Quote    Reply   
avatar

jack

fanatic

Posts: 1,429

#31 [url]

Nov 8 13 2:32 PM

Same here. Some of my best pictures were taken 'crammed' onto my desk, placing a sheet of foam board in front of my computer screen and using a single clear 40 wt bulb as close to 'center' as I can get it. And for myself, by all means, "turn off the flash", its just way-too-much for such close work.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

Quote    Reply   
Remove this ad
Add Reply

Quick Reply

bbcode help