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#21 [url]

Dec 7 11 11:07 PM

Jack,

While I love the Litko stuff, and have bought some miscellaneous stuff from them, I'm still an "old timer" when it comes to figure bases.

If I'm doing multiple-figure bases without singles for casualties or skirmishing, I use artist's illustration board from a store like Michaels or Hobby Lobby. It is a laminated product that usually has either a gray or a greenish-blue back and a coated matte white surface finish. It takes all adhesives and paints and doesn't warp unless you really load it up with wet putty or spackle. You can cut it with a craft knife or a hinged-blade type paper cutter. I then put self-adhesive magnetic sheet on the bottom when I've finished my base texturing and line my carrying cases or boxes with thin galvanized roof flashing available from DIY stores like Lowe's or Home Depot (can be cut with heavy-duty scissors or tin snips).

You can do a Litko-style base, if you're willing to do a bit of extra work. Base your figures on inexpensive 1" fender washers (again, Lowe's or Home Depot) and terrain the washers when you're done painting. In the meantime, lay out some washers on a piece of the illustration board to determine your size and shape (squared-off or irregular like a Litko "Horde" base) and trace around the washers with a pencil. Cut the illustration board with heavy scissors or a craft knife and then use some epoxy putty or thick spackle and build-up the edge of the base and the spaces between the washer patterns. When your filler is dry, paint the base and flock or sand just the built-up parts. If you're work is neat, your washer-based figures should drop right into place.You can even cut some magnetic sheet into circles and put that into the "holes" so that your washers are held in place.

While round bases seem to be the "rage" right now for skirmishing, role-playing and such, you can also get 1" square galvanized metal bases made by Wargames Accessories through folks like the War Store or Grandiosity (warweb.com) very reasonably. It makes your "trays" easier to cut out and you only have to build-up the outer edge of the tray, not the spaces in between. It makes cutting the magnetic sheet much easier too. Also, speaking of magnetic sheet, while you can get about a 9 X 12 sheet at Michaels or Hobby Lobby, if you have a local sign shop (and almost everyone does now-a-days), they usually stock this material in 12", 18" and 24" wide rolls. They will usually sell you this stuff by either the inch or the foot. A friend of mine does so many figures that he found an online source and just bought his own roll.

Hope this is of use, just some rambling tips from an old-timer.

Regards;

Bill Sir William the Aged www.warsoflouisxiv.blogspot.com

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#22 [url]

Dec 8 11 2:57 PM

Hi Bill and thanks for the info.. especially the "how to" for the movement trays. 
Even a few things even I have never thought of... I know Unbelieveable, right?!
But then I have always been the quiet, humble soul. angel

But seriously..  I have tended to favor the square base's. I think for the simple reason, especially when doing RPG or skirmish battles, the corners give you that built in 90' front arc/ area of sight guage if you will.
And it made it easier to 'form ranks' if you are using an open movment tray or even before they became so common place. Which I think really gives almost any army a more accurate look, historically speaking that is.
 
Now I will "have to" check into those square metal bases. I never even considered metal Bill because they are so thin. Right now IM leaning towards Litko's, 25mm/1 inch square - 3mm plywood. As I can tell, a pack of 100 will run about $10.
If my plan works out, I HOPE to be ordering 'at least' 90 Zulu's. I intend to organize them into units of 20 men per unit, the extra 10 are going to become a "British Friendly native unit. Though, for now, I have a limited knowledge of 'which' African tribes used exactly what weapons. Im thinking by going with the Knoberry and spears will be a safe choice for accuracy.
 
Thanks Bill
Jack


"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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#23 [url]

Dec 8 11 4:36 PM

I'd have to second the magnetic basing, mine are not, and i recently took my might of rome armies to a local store and let's just say they didn't travel well.  No damage, i was just picking Roman's up for quite some time. 

For regular basing, I prefer the 20mm square bases by Wargames Factory.  Litko and Gale Force 9 could sometimes take a few weeks to ship, the Wargames Factory orders usually shipped in a day and arrived in 3-4.  The GF9 bases also have some kind of stain on them, wasn't really a problem, but if you want to paint them you'd have to wipe it off the sides (i use a filler around the figure itself so no issues there).  With the GF9 and Litko bases I also usually used different types of glue, using the plastic bases from WGF simplified that.

I ordered a movement stand from Litko before as well to check it out.  Was a bit too bulky for my taste, and I had to glue the sides and front.  Quality is good though.  For the cost however I'd rather just make my own using your standard cereal box cardboard.  Cut to size, and build edges with the 6mm wide craft sticks you can find at Walmart.  Paint it all black, then paint the edges with graveyard earth or some other color.  You could add some sand, or turf or whatever as well.  Granted, I'm no where near the quality of painter or modeler as you see on here, but this gets mine units based up for Hail Caesar pretty quickly, not to mention cheaply.

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#24 [url]

Dec 14 11 1:40 AM

I also am reconsidering my basing for my WF Zulus. In a few 'tests' w an old 20 and 25 mm spare, I think the larger base just makes the figure look too small, even though it would help to give the Zulu formations, a more "loose /open order" appearence.

I wish WF bases were the raised or "hollow" type base that other companies sell. I like to put a small piece of 'scrap' metal, disk or washer on the bottom to give them a bit of wt. for 'feel'. This also really helps to stabilze the minitures when playing a skirmish game and your 'moving up hill'.

p.s. I hope "lefora" doesnt play  Randomize the Font with this post, as it did my previous.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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#25 [url]

Dec 15 11 12:44 AM

Well I base my Zulu and British on 4 figure bases (40mm square), in this photo you can see the effect (although they were still work in progress then)

the bases are magnetic as well and that adds weight to the figures.
The single based figures are skirmishers, artillery crew and officers.

Battle report here:
http://cack-wargamesclub.net/index.php?name=ForumsPro&file=viewtopic&t=2603

British army still not finished but getting there
http://3vwargames.blogspot.com/2011/11/british-army-for-black-powder-zulu-wars.html
and you can see how the figures look on multiple bases

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#26 [url]

Dec 15 11 1:37 AM

Zedeyejoe, I really like the look of your units.  I have often thought of using multi-figs per base, as they do with 15 mm ACW.
But I think I like the idea of removing "casualty for casualty"..  seeing the effects the "fighting" is taking on the units, watching them being worn down as the battle progresses.
And I have to ask..   it actually looks like this was set up on a sandy beach somewhere. Is this a home made 'game section' you built?

Im a LONG, long way from even finishing my first Zulus. If things dont stop going "ka-pow" w my car and our home.. Im going to start selling blood for maintaince and up keep. LOL
So the mini's will have to be put on .. hold for now.   crying

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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#27 [url]

Dec 15 11 12:40 PM

No, its just one of the standard tables at the club. We usually have some form of textured surface on the tables.

Casualty removal probably helps your opponent to see  how damaged your units are - the gods eye view of the table. So a bit unrealistic.

The Christmas project is to finish off all part painted units. Then everything including the Zulu will look good.

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#28 [url]

Dec 18 11 7:24 PM

Once upon a time......3 years ago, I was against magnetics. Used tacky instead....NO more. I now have a couple of thousand minies with magnets attached. They stand upon flex steel and or sheet metal attached to mostly plastic movement trays..

It does beat the heck out tipping a tray forward and watching all the troops slide forward and off the edge of the movment tray onto the tabletop.

Soon....a longtime opponent and close friend will be starting to assemble and paint his present. Two boxes of goodies of WGF goodies.....A box of the Colonial British and a box of Zulus.

He's got several already....BUT.....he really likes the minies. 

I get my turn at pushing the Zulus.grin

I am therefore I think....OR....I think therefore I am...OR...I think I am therefore I am!!

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#29 [url]

Feb 11 12 8:31 AM

Any Warped Bases?
I was just wondering, though still relatively new, has anyone had any problem or seen any sign of "warping" with their Wargames Factory plastic bases?
Personally I 'dont' expect it to become a problem for many years, IF at all, because Im certain they are molded from the same material as the miniatures.
But I know over time, plastic 'can' start to bend/warp, so this is nothing more than curiosity.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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#30 [url]

Feb 11 12 8:52 AM

They stand upon flex steel and or sheet metal attached to mostly plastic movement trays..

-crazyharborc


That seems to be the way now. Im considering it as well. Burlesonbill also mentioned putting the "magnetic sheet" in the movement trays. That would work great with fig's which use washers AS bases, if not in the movement tray, at least in the storage/transport boxes. It would be a great help in protecting our mini's in transport.


Soon....a longtime opponent  ...friend will be starting to assemble..  Two boxes  ...of WGF goodies..... Colonial British and a box of Zulus.


Crazyharborc,
So how did your friend like his 'present'? And how far along has he gotten in the painting and assembling his units?

- the gods eye view of the table. So a bit unrealistic.
The Christmas project is to finish off all part painted units. Then everything including the Zulu will look good. -zedeyejoe


Zedeyejoe,
"the Gods eye view", You make a good point, something to consider I agree.
As for the christmas project, did you get "the workbench" cleared?
Im still working on 2 projects (at least) one of which are the building of my WF Zulu's. I have to say, even though there is very little to do, the cleaning of mold lines and 'connetion points' is still THE most monotonous phase which feels as if its never going to end.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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#31 [url]

Feb 12 12 5:17 AM

Gentlemen,

All good points. Let me give you my two quick thoughts.

With the God's eye view the farther back in time you go the more common this actually occurred. Civilians early during the American Civil War had sightseeing groups watching the battles. Ancient generals took the high ground not just because troops running downhill are stronger, faster, and less fatigued, but also to obtain that God's eye view of the battle as it unfolded.

Magnets- my suggestion is use your plastic bases first, especially if you make great base mini dioramas. Any plastic bits you use (glue with polystyrene) to your bases will stay fused better to plastic. Then glue  your metal base to the underside of the plastic base. I thing this will give you the best of all possible worlds. The important plastic is fused to plastic, metal is glued to the less important underside of the base, the figure now has more weight assisting with battlefield movement, there will be much less possibility of warping of the plastic base, and transport is safer with magnetic trays. I also love the magnetic trays for battlefield movement, when possible.

Jim

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#32 [url]

Sep 7 12 12:38 AM

A "Problem Shines Through".

A couple of months ago (at least) I finished my first set of Zulus. Well when I 'stepped back" I was 'satisfied' with the outcome. Not great, but I think its a "good gaming" paint job.
However when I 'Stood Up' and looked down on my mini's, I was shocked to see that here and there 'bits' of the bright fender washers were shinning through. Sweet Ol Boy!

My Plan..
First I dont see any way to 'repair' the first 20. Short of ripping them off their bases and stripping the entire base. Its Water Under the Bridge. (

So looking forward:
Set 2 of (at least) 3 boxes. I will repeat what I did with the last 10 of my first 30 Zulu's.
Which is...
Glue the torso to the fender washer. Then a light but complete spraying with dull coat.
Next, paint the entire base (washer) with the same or slightly darker color then I am going to use to basecoat the models themselves.
Finally, another 'light but complete' layer of dull coat to 'secure' the basecoat to the washer.
Then.. continue with 'actually' finishing the models.

QUESTION   has anyone else had this problem or have any other suggestions that might help me get a better 'finished look" using the fender washers as bases?
 
Any ideas are appreciated.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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#33 [url]

Dec 16 12 9:58 AM

Jim

Are there any plans on doing "25mm Square" bases that we can purchase seperately, as we can the 20mm Sq. & 25mm Rnd. that you now carry?
And while on the subject of individual bases or that is, 'bases only' packs, what about 40 or 50mm Sq. for artillery?

The main reason for my curiosity are due to my intentions of using 25's to base my Zulu War British troops, along w/ flex steel attached to the bottom of each for use with magnetic sheet lined movement or at the least lined travel / storage trays.

I like the fender washers for the zulu as they tend to be 'well organized' skirmishers, but the British naturallly fight in the European 'shoulder to shoulder' line style. And IMHO the 25mm / 1 in. square gives them just the right look for spacing.

"You see old friend, I brought more soldiers than you did." 'King Leonidas - 300'

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